We started off at about 8.30 a.m. for Lagabum. The Fon
had arranged carriers and had deputed Yangsi
to accompany us. We stopped at Pastor
Dom's to thank him and Daniel Bang for their kindness. The magnificent tie-tie bridge is not far from his house.
He tells us that the Kumbi is impassable in the
full rainy season and the tie-tie unusable
as the approaches are flooded. We trot over one by one - the river
below is going at a great pace towards the series of rapids and
small falls further down. Climbing up on the flank of the hill
opposite one can see a number of small settlements within a couple
of miles of Fonfuka. The ascent,
about 6½ miles, becomes rockier higher up and in some places one was in
need of hands to pull oneself up. We stopped for a breather at
about 1000 ft from the valley floor and shared out our kolas. Yangsi said they were not for the small boys
- it is men who
draw strength from them!
The harder
climb came next and I was pretty slow, with a pain
in the chest from exertion - the rest were as nimble as chamois.
A ring of trees hove into view and we suddenly reached a little
plateau with a nice shady path between planted hedges of
macrocarpa which led to the palace (ntok I think) which we reached in a few
minutes and were greeted by
Esther and three other women, and
shown to our extremely comfortable
quarters, the "Boys" being lodged in a good room lower down
the
range
- everything spotless. After paying
off the carriers we had a
bath and changed out of our sweaty clothes and then Omer announced that the Fon would call.
And he did, immaculate in a dark suit, to inquire how we had
fared,
and sipped a glass of sherry with us. We are to meet him later,
he says, when we are unpacked and rested. His manners are
exquisite.
Later we met in the Fon's sitting place in the
inner court, an
open nook surrounded by carved boards. With the Fon were Ndifon and Esther (his sister, we are told) - the
three others are madams
Nanambang, fairly elderly, Kicusi and Cioekoe, all introduced as his
"sisters". He explains that they serve the Fon's strangers. But Nanambang holds a
title, is a leader in ntul, and is
present when sacrifices are performed but she does not
go to the fum.
Only the Fon and Ful go
there - though Ndifon may enter. If Ful were to die, Ndifon
could substitute for him. Members of the "royal family"
could
listen in the background. No cinda or tanto' goes to the fum.
If Fon Mbot sends
someone here to make a sacrifice he does not enter the fum.
But if Fon Mbot himself came he could do so, and did so when the
late Fon of Bum died. But if Fon Bum goes to Mbot on a similar
occasion he enters the fum there before Fon
Mbot, because he is senior
in rank. (Fon Sawe arrives, with
Fon Saf.) We ask
who came to
mourn and with what when the late Fon of Bum died.
Ndifon Bala answers. Mbot had already arrived - Fon interposes
here that when Fon Bum (presumably the late) went to Mbot for
the death of Mbunggwe he came back
with a stool of his (? pokofono or pokotoko) so that
when Fon Mbot comes here he can sit on it. (Continues now.) Iden (Din) was here, and Nkol. Jottin failed: when the Chief of Jottin
(Kinenteng) died previously
no report was sent here, so no report was sent to Jottin when
the Fon's father died. Banso' came with manjong to the cry-die. Oku
sent his njis and manjong. Bikom came with
manjong. The Fon of Babungo came himself with
manjong. Ndu came tardily - 3 months ago - with
manjong. 'Tameken' (Tabeken, Tang-mbo) came
with manjong.
Achan-Kom, sub-chief of Kom, came with kwi'fon. Others who sent kwi'fon came from Funggom side, namely Bafmen, Nyos, Fuwang, Mendaboeli, Koshin. Besinaku sent their ngwonji juju, a thing for princes. The Chief himself came from Modelle (Ide) with manjong. Aghoem sent manjong and We came with cong. Chunji (in Nchanti) came with manjong. Neither Bafut nor Bali came, nor did Misaje. Significance of kwifon or manjong: kwi'fon may not go to "enemy territory" or where they had warred on previous occasions. So Kom came with manjong and Achan, which had been part of Bum, with kwi'fon. A friendly group could send kwi'fon or 'mfu'. The Fon says the stool on which he was installed, and which came from Nggunabum is kept in the fum.
Both Fon Sawe and Fon Saf have kwi'fon, but none of the other chiefs have it because they could not keep
it when conquered - "it is the power of the people".
Fon Sawe is asked where he came from by Phyllis and a
son has
to be got as intermediary and interpreter. (Note that the Fon
of Bum ensures that he speaks for himself.) He starts by saying
that he is permitted to wear leopard's teeth and is second to
Fon Bum in rank. He sits above Fon Saf and to the
left of Fon Bum. Sawe came from
Oku out of the lake,
Mawes; he came to Sawe-Bum. There were many left
in Oku,
but he won't say more "in case politics are made
out of it".
Fon Saf says he only knows what his father said, that his ancestor
came from the Mbiribo
pool and met the Saf up here, but his big men are not here so
he cannot tell the story of Saf.
(We turn to recent relations
with Kom.) All say that there was intermarriage, and
that those who had married in Kom would act as intermediaries
in peace negotiations. After the war over Achan was over, there
was a marriage palaver - a Kom woman ran home - which had to be
settled. Bikom was asked to send big men
to come to Achan (Nchan) which was
in the middle, at the boundary. This was in the time of Kwangga. Njito' went from here, also Yibuwa, a big cinda used in negotiations, and Dominejing. Bum brought a goat and Bikom
brought a goat. Each brought a
fowl. Dominejing, a close relative of the Fon, slaughtered the
Bum goat and a Kom man (don't know his name) the Kom one. Both
sides held the goat that was slaughtered by its donor. This took
place in the ntul house at Achan. Then wine was poured into a big
pot in ntul. They "reached a covenant" - mukan -
never to war again.
The two parties ate the goats. Men only were
present. (We lose sight of the fowls.) The reason why Achan stayed
with Kom later is that there was a period of starvation and they
were getting their food from the Kom side, i.e. the good farmland
was on the Kom side. So they wanted to stay with Kom. After that
many daughters married Kom men and Fon Bikom sent a daughter to
Bum, but she returned to Kom.
Achan at present "goes through the mother's
side". Formerly there
was matrilineal descent
at Akun, Njul,
and Buwabuwa, in Bum. In Saf "sons
succeed".
We ask how good relations were established with Nso'. When Banso'
was having a war with Iden one of the Nso' chindas was captured,
and Iden sent him to Bum to be sold as a slave. Fon Bum released
him, clothed him well, and sent him back to Nso'. Fon Nso' said
he had believed he would never see his servant again, and that
Nso' would have to live co-operatively with Bum. He sent a chinda,
Biimbo', to Fon Bum to greet him with
a goat and a basket of kola with
a message: "I have kola nuts but no salt, kola
nuts but no cloth." The salt
came from the Hausa who brought it to
Bum, who sold it on to Nkol where the market was
established. Yes, they brought salt and
"black" cloth got from the Hausa to Nkol where the Banso'
people
came to buy it. When? They think it must have been in Tam's time. No, there was no exchange of
princesses, but Fon Bum
has recently offered a princess to Nso'. But they could trade
freely because there was peace between them.
The Fon says, "We had a man called Mbuli who acted as intermediary between the Hausa
and Bum. He was a
cinda at Fonfuka. The Hausa made a permanent settlement there
in the time of Tam. But the first people who visited here to trade
were Jikum (Jukun) and they came long before the Hausa. They moved in
groups
of three or four with carriers since these were troubled times,
living in houses of trader-friends in Fonfuka. In the time of
Tam a nobleman called Kitu was
intermediary with the Jikum. They too brought salt and cloth
and took kola nuts in exchange". The first Englishman in the north
was at Ibbi.
"Ten tusks" were sent to him, "Mr Hewby", at Ibbi. [This may be a backward
reflection or conflation -
Wallace opened up the RNC Ibbi Station in 1883 and was
visited by "Bafum".] The Englishmen
presented Fon Bum with two dane guns, two
boxes of cloth, and two boxes of gunpowder. Those who went
to Ibbi were Sala and Domfuwan, chindas, Tumabu, chinda, and Nji Banga, a Coe [see 8.6.63 and
compare names of those who went to Bamenda to
meet the Germans!] They stayed almost a year at Ibbi and Takum, and the Fon thought they would never come
back. A second time
five tusks were sent to "Hewby", but the Chief of Takum
intercepted
them and pretended that "Hewby" had gone. He promised to return
the tusks but never did. They think this was early in Tam's reign.
We ask about directions of ivory trade. The reply is that if the Fon had tusks here he would send them
as a gift to say, Nso', Kom or Mbot, and
others and some gift, e.g. "a beautiful girl" would be returned
in exchange. [That is, ivory was initially preferred for gift
exchange.] Guns were obtained from Takum in exchange for kola.
Before cloth came in men wore gowns of beaten bark cloth called agum - so long ago
they can't remember when. Asked about fates of
slaves captured in war: If a captive was too stubborn to be kept
as a slave locally he was sold to Takum
for bags of salt. If a Bamum man was captured
by Nso' he would be sent here. Then the
Takum people came down to buy kola and slaves, and then
the slave would be sent as a carrier and told he would get cloth
at the end of the journey. He was in fact sold for one or two
bags of salt - salt was rare then.
Dane
guns came in the time of Tam (?). It was the Hausa who
brought cowries from Takum. Babungo was making gongs and 'shovels' (hoes), and Bum gave salt for
them. When going
to Oku to trade, they would take oil from Fuwang to trade for
Oku shovels, cutlasses, and kola nuts.
[The Fon is doing the interpreting, referring questions to Ful, Ndifon and Nanambang, and occasionally to Fon Sawe and Fon Saf.]
We break off. Later the Fon and Ndifon come over for
drinks in
our quarters. The Fon says that at his own installation Njito' puts a cap on him. This is supposedly the cap worn by
the first ruler, not his father's cap. It is only worn at installation.
He is then robed with a gown decorated with cowries and rubbed
with "bundu" (camwood) - it is that which gives power. Then he
is told by Njito' to
keep peace, care for his people and not use "power" against his
own people.
No earth is thrown at him, to give "power". It is bundu which gives it. [But see Pt. III.]
The power he has is to say, "let this lawbreaker be punished" and then
kwi'fon will do it, but in the Fon's name. Also "everything"
belongs
to the Fon - e.g. if a tusk of a dead elephant is found in the
bush. The Fon is asked not to hunt as he must care for people,
so he is given a share of the game. Any man must report the presence
of strangers to the Fon, who can authorize a Q.H. [Quarterhead)
to give him land if that is what is wanted. The Q.H. must report
on him, e.g. if he leaves. All sub-chiefs, except Sawe and Saf,
must go through a gatekeeper, a cinda not a tanto'. All births and deaths had to be
reported to the Fon so that
he knows how many people he has. Yes, every quarter is responsible
for a building in the palace, to thatch and rebuild - that is
why Lagabum is so called - it is the centre and belongs to the
people. If they failed to build, kwi'fon would then fine them five
goats and they would have to build.
The Q.H. would be held responsible for labour. Clearing roads
is also a quarter responsibility.
If people go fishing, such as Mbamelo, they would
dry fish and bring some to the palace. Hunters bring
a share. Strangers and those in need have to be fed.
Yes, Munggong, Su, Nggunakimbi, etc. - each quarter - work the
Fon's farm and plant maize. If
there is hunger, the Fon would send for the Q.H. concerned and
give him 5-10 baskets for his people. One single
man can't work for the country as a whole. The Fon
must see to the whole country and provide food where it is
needed.
Yes, formerly there were iron-workers here making spears and cutlasses. In time of war they were brought to the palace, also guns and gunpowder by those who had them, so that they could be distributed to warriors.
Ndifon says that in the time of his father there were
plenty of
goats, fowls, wine here in the palace for the
entertainment of strangers. People also brought firewood
to the Fon [no regular system, it seems].
We ask about acisendasu. "The custom is that
a prince made Fon cannot serve himself."
"Everyone" is expected to offer the Fon servants or a son. Male
children sent by big men would go to
kwi'fon, then the babe
who is head there would select some to be personal attendants
on the Fon. They would be among the Fon's wives. They would be
"trained in observation" and report to the Fon. Babe
is the most important man in kwi'fon - the Fon gives orders to him and he
sends out kwi'fon people to effect them. He has his eye on someone to
replace him
after five years or so. When he comes out he may be given a title
such as Manggoe, Tongla' or Tanto' Wanke - these are titles given to people who have served in
kwi'fon. Before he leaves, a compound is built for him and he is given
a wife or wives by the Fon. If anything is to be discussed in
the palace,
they are among the big people (i.e.
the ex-babes are). They would get out of people who come to the palace
exactly
what they have come for and then report to the Fon. "They are
the Fon's intelligence system". "Kwi'fon has as many
eyes as holes in a nkem."
Yes, the right to bags and cups is given by the Fon, involving the right to use a cup in the palace rather than taking wine in the hands from the Fon. Ndifon had to pay for his title with goats. Ful likewise on receiving the title of Mwancum, and Nanambang that of Nda'nggo. Payment is made to the Fon and other royals (NB: these are all "royal" titles). Other royals pay as Ndifon Bala has paid and he could compel others to pay for wearing a cap and bringing a cup and bag.
The Fon explains that if he can do so, he "has status". But Njito' has no need of this. He could even drive Ndifon out of the palace for misguiding the Fon, and he would have to go. The Fon explains: "Njito' stands for the people and stands between the people and the Fon."
In the evening Njang came into the courtyard, and danced
in front of our lodging,
and we went out to watch when we heard the women's voices, shrilling
very sweetly. The "princesses" and perhaps some others danced
in the centre, while five wives in chaplets danced in a row in a corner with great
precision. The dance is
led by the niafon Nanambang, a reserved and dignified woman -
perhaps in late forties, with the munto' Esther in second place.
I try to follow the steps where I stand, but they are complicated
- a lot of small gliding steps with accurately placed feet. The
instruments are 1) a single-ended standing drum played first by
"Peter" (a prince) and then by Esther's son - different tones
are clearly produced; 2) a small elbow-drum played by a woman
in a regular off-beat; 3) an open-ended flute providing the basic
rhythm; at times the drum was discoursing; 4) an open-ended shorter
flute played into a long horn (antelope ?) producing a drone;
5) two basketwork rattles of mbatsha type, one playing a regular
uu/uuu, and the other varying this.
I recorded a bit, but I doubt whether the battered Steelman will
produce more than a mush. They broke off for a moment to crowd
round and greet us - and asked what our work was, disappointed,
I fear, that we were not doctors or Elizabeth O'Kelly come with a
corn-mill. They resumed when the Fon joined us. [I
haven't recorded the amateur doctoring we did in Fonfuka with
liquid paraffin and senna pods on constipated children.]
The Fon tells us that the words of the first song mean
"The Fon
is hated because he has confidence in Dr Endeley" - he takes
this in good part - and the second, "The foundations
of Bum were laid by our forefathers". The envoi, as they moved
off to the sound of elephant horns, played by a wife and princess,
was said to be 'a prayer'.
Their voices trailed away in the distance, and perhaps the Steelman will catch that effect, quite stunning with the sun low in the sky.
The Fon tells us that Nanambang "was on the
throne" for two months
while he was being recalled from his work at the Jos tin mines.
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